odaey wrote:timber715 wrote:It's my first time to do a dovetail joint. A second pass is actually encouraged to smoothen the edges. It became half blind because it was the only bit included in the kit and the wood that I had was oversized 3/4.
hehehe, anyway the half blind dovetails seem to look much better on projects as such... the half blind dovetails is so much nicer in lots of ways and is often harder to perfect.
I can hardly miss a thread that has dovetails in the title...
it is like a magnet for me
Two of the joints came out a bit loose than I wanted so I cheated a little by applying turbo glue on the inside of the loose joints to maintain the right angle. It might not be acceptable for you purists.
hehehe. part of woodworking is hiding mistakes
, and partly the better you can hide them the better you become. one trick is to sand the joint before the glue dries. that way the the loose joints will be covered with the same wood and not stand out. also using contrasting wood makes it easier when gaps arises.
I often use them on drawer fronts usually rabbeted too. here is one during dry fitting.
but for carcass work I stay with the through dovetails, it much easier to make and fit.
I even wanted to see what it would look like if I made casing for tube amps using those joints and contrasting wood.
and I think that half blind dovetails are the better choice for the tube casing plinth or tube amp casings when it comes to aesthetics.
btw, you should try shellac as a finish on the plint you made, it should make it look stunning and highlight the wood even more... they call it French polish and is what true piano finish is all about.
here is an example with Dao...
and on Dao and Narra...